Wednesday, April 20, 2016

Activity Guide for Cat Tien National Park

Activity guide for Cat Tien National Park, Vietnam
(PDF version is forthcoming)

There is a lot to see and do in Cat Tien, it just takes a little bit of planning and asking the right questions. I hope this information helps you make the most of your time there.
I’ve organized the activities according to the amount of time they take, from a half-day or less, up to week long visits.
Let me know if you use this. I’d love to hear about your trip!
Marilyn Marler, marilynjmarler@gmail.com

Big thanks to:
Carla Abrams, Dao Van Hoang, Đat Đinh, Tan Vo, Trong, Dien Nguyen, Khanh Pham,h David Schmetterling

General information.
These descriptions were updated in early 2016, but please remember that conditions change over time. Some activities are not possible during the rainy season.  You should take appropriate precautions for safety depending on the season, and keep in mind that the time estimates below are ONLY ESTIMATES. Trekking and biking times depend on your fitness and how often you stop for watching wildlife or taking pictures.  Please contact the Park’s Tourism office for current prices for guides, car rental, bike rental and admission fees.

Hire a guide.
There are so many reasons to hire a guide for hiking, biking, birdwatching or visiting local towns.  Here are some of those reasons.
You will see more wildlife
You will learn about local plants
You are supporting conservation-based jobs in the community
You probably don’t speak Vietnamese, and it is really fun  to communicate with the locals (through your English speaking guide)


Accommodations in and around the park. 

National Park Hotel. It isn’t really a “hotel” but a collection of options for all budgets and group sizes. Choose from tent camping (if you have a tent), private bungalows/guest houses (many options), or even dormitories if you are a large group of college students.  The price depends on the number of beds and the number of people, as you would expect. The bungalows and guest houses have received some negative comments on Trip Advisor but I’ve never had a problem. They are rustic, like you’d expect in a national park, but they have clean linens and hot water and they are very secure.

Forest Floor Lodge. This is a privately owned and upscale hotel that is located in the park. You can book directly with them on line.

Private guesthouses and hotels outside the park.  Across the Dong Nai River, outside the park but within walking distance to the ferry and main entrance, there are a handful of privately run guest houses.  You can read about them on Trip Advisor, and most of them take reservations on line. NOTE that if you are going to do the Gibbon Trek, you need to stay at Park Headquarters, because the ferry across the river doesn’t run in the pre-dawn hours (and the Gibbon Trek starts very early).

Crocodile Lake Guesthouse.  This is a park-owned guesthouse (with showers and flush toilets) located at Crocodile Lake.  You have to make advance reservations, since it is a remote location and it takes a little planning to make sure there will be linens and food for you. Make arrangements with the Park’s Tourism Office, and make sure you clarify whether you will be bringing your own food or eating with the Rangers. You should eat with the Rangers because they are good cooks and interesting people. It can be a great cultural experience.

Homestay at Dac Lua farming village. Just across the northern boundary of the park is the farming community of Dac Lua. With a few days’ notice, you can stay with Mr Hahn and his family, who raise silkworms and mulberry plants to feed them. This is a great way to support community based tourism. The park Tourism Office can help you arrange
the homestay. The hosts don’t speak English, but are really friendly.  Also, you will hopefully have an English-speaking guide with you anyway, and they can translate for you.

Ta Lai Longhouse.  Just across the south western boundary of the park is the village of Ta Lai. Most people in Ta Lai are members of the Ma or S’Tieng ethnic minority group. The community (in cooperation with the national park and a small British company) operate a traditional style longhouse as a hotel. It is very charming and comfortable, with a really friendly staff. You can rent kayaks and bikes, and get advice about things to see in this general area. You can book on line directly with them.

Eating inside the Park
There are two restaurants at Park Headquarters.  One is called the Golden Bamboo and it is an open air structure (made out of bamboo) within sight of the Dong Nai River, and adjacent to the Tourism Office.  The other is called Dipterocarp Café, and it is at the far end of the row of guest houses.
Both restaurants are fine. While they have long menus, it is pretty common to order something and then be told “We don’t have it today.” Try to start off by asking what they do have today.  If that isn’t successful, just be patient while you figure out what the options are.
Prices are elevated compared to most restaurants, but it’s because you are inside a national park. It is hard to get stuff in there! Plan accordingly.  You can always ferry across the river and find a place to eat in the nearby village, but just allow extra time and make sure you know when the ferry is coming back (if you are staying inside the park).

Travel within the Park
Your options are walking, renting a bike from the tourism office, or hiring a car and driver. You can see a lot in any of these scenarios.  Just adjust according to your schedule and the number of “things” you want to see.  Most domestic tourists get around by car, and the tourism office staff will encourage you to do the same, because they want you to have a good time.  Just be clear that you want to bike or walk instead (if that is the case)





After you check in, take a little time to visit the Tourism Office.  If you ask, the staff will turn on the TV so you can watch some excellent nature videos about the park. There are a whole series of these documentaries: Swamps, Birds, and more. They are really worth watching.  Get yourself an iced coffee or Saigon Bia from the Yellow Bamboo Canteen and enjoy.

The TV room also has gorgeous murals featuring the wildlife and plants of Cat Tien.  These were commissioned in 2010 from wildlife artist Dao Van Hoang who currently lives in Ho Chi Minh City.

The murals will hopefully be renovated in 2016 or 2017.  Interpretative panels will also be added, so visitors can learn about the park’s inhabitants.

Make sure you also visit the Dipterocarp Café during you stay. It features huge murals of the park’s charismatic wildlife, also painted by Mr. Hoang, and also scheduled for updating in the near future.


Famous Attractions (you should include these in your trip!)

Night Safari. 7 pm nightly.
Night spotting is the easiest way to see mammals. Ride in an open air truck through the jungle to observe wild animals such as deer, wild pigs, snakes, porcupines, and weasels as they forage for food on the grasslands or in bushes during the night. Daily tours depart from the Tourism Office at 7:30 and 8:30 pm. You should make a reservation in advance (at least a few hours in advance).

See southern Vietnam’s only ape in the wild: the golden-cheeked gibbon Led by experienced guides, this trek takes you off the tourist trails & gives you the chance to see these endangered primates in their natural habitat. Meet your guide at the Tourism Center and go on a short trek into the forest. As the sun comes up you will hopefully be serenaded by the gibbons. Your guide will take you to their location if they are nearby. Gibbon sightings are not guaranteed but are fairly common. The trek is followed by a visit to Dao Tien Endangered Primate Species Centre, which is on a small island near Park Headquarters, in the Dong Nai River.

Regulations & Considerations. Please read before booking.
To ensure you have the best chance of seeing wildlife, without compromising their welfare or your safety:
Tours are limited to 4 people per day. Please book in advance.
Take plenty of water
Don’t bring food. Please eat before you go.
Please wear dark colored clothes, thick trousers & good walking shoes.
No smoking in the forest.
Direct interaction with the gibbons is completely forbidden.
A moderate fitness level is required for all participants as it involves forest trekking at a relatively fast pace, possibly over uneven terrain, rattan and slippery rocks. Cat Tien has the right to refuse participation for anyone whom they deem unsuitable, unprepared or obviously unwell.
The minimum age is 12 years old, and anyone under 16 must be accompanied by an adult who must take full responsibility for their safety.
 
How to Book
Book with Cat Tien Tourism Office: namcattien@yahoo.com.vn, or cattienvietnam@gmail.com / +84 (0) 613669228.
do not book this tour through any third party organization. Cat Tien cannot honour these bookings, and we cannot guarantee that your money will go towards conservation.

  
Crocodile Lake
Crocodile is a beautiful wetland complex that can only be reached by trekking 5 km from the main park road (the trailhead is 9 km from Park Headquarters and can be reached by bike or by taking a Park vehicle). It can be done as a day trip or as an overnighter. If you want to stay the night, make arrangements with the Tourism Office.  Since it is a remote location, the staff at Crocodile Lake (i.e., the Forest Rangers who work at the Crocodile Lake Guard Station) will need some notice to have your room and food ready.

A lot of people do this as a day trip, which has you arriving at the lake around mid-day.  It is really hot at mid-day, and hard to see many animals. If you leave early in the morning, or stay overnight, you’ll have much better viewing opportunities.  If some of the rangers are available, you can hire them to take you out on a small boat. Please try to do this, because it’s incredibly beautiful.

PLEASE NOTE that Crocodile Lake is a special management area and you must buy a ticket at the Tourism Office before visiting. It is possible to stay overnight in the guest house, but you have to arrange that ahead of time. Please make reservations at the Tourism Office.



Half day activities.

It’s easy to entertain yourself around the Park Headquarters if you have a few hours or even a whole day for exploring.  While you will see more animals and learn more about the park if you hire a guide, there are several short trails you can explore safely on your own. And sometimes it is nice to be alone!  But if you hire a guide, you are helping the local economy.
Here are some sights you can explore by foot or on a bike. I’d take a bike, and then you could spend a half day visiting everything from the Ancient Trung Tree to the Hundred Trunk Ficus.
The Tourism Office may strongly encourage you to take a car or jeep. But it’s really not that far and a bike is a nice way to go.  It is a little too far on foot if you planning to go all the way to the Hundred Trunk Ficus, but if you decide to head out on foot, you can just turn around whenever you want. Plus it is easy to see birds, insects and sometimes even primates from the main park road (which is unpaved after a few kilometers and not too busy).


Park HQ – Ancient Tung Tree.  6 km round trip.
An easy trek in the beautiful forest near the Park Headquarters. You will see a variety of trees, including 2 giant Tung trees, and enjoy the sounds of the jungle.
Trekking, 1.5-2 hours
Biking combined with trekking, 1 hour
Car combined with trekking, 45 minutes if you take a car to the beginning of the trail. But why rush? Walking or biking gives you more time to see the area.

Park HQ- Heaven’s Rapids. 12 km round trip.
Trek, bike or take a car 5km on the park road to the beginning of this trail.  Then trek the remaining 1 km to the Dong Nai River to see the beautiful Heaven’s Rapids, which is the beginning of a chain of rapids. We recommend combining this trip with other sights including the Botanical Trail (Reddish Wood Trees) and the Tung Tree walk.
Trekking, 3 hours
Biking combined with trekking, 2 hours
Car combined with trekking- 1.5 hours

Bicycle or take a car the 15 km through the jungle on the main park road, then walk 1 km to this amazing Ficus tree with dozens of trunks spanning a year-round stream.
Trekking- allow the whole day/Biking- 4-5 hours/By car- 3 hours


Park HQ-Botanical Trail-Reddish Wood Trees. Up to 18 km depending on your route.
The Botanical Garden has over 300 plant species of Southeast Vietnam. We recommend combining this route with the Heavens Rapids Trail.
Trekking-4-5 hours
Biking- not recommended because the trail makes a loop. You have to leave your bike at the beginning of the trail (on the main road), so when you exit the trail, your bike won’t be there. You can solve this conundrum by just walking a little farther to retrieve your bike.
By car- 3 hours.

Cat Tien Bear and Wildlife Rescue Station (Tours are available daily)
The Park hosts a rehabilitation center for Sun bears, Asian black bears, gibbons, and more.  Wildlife rescue centers are important for conservation in Vietnam (and throughout Asia) since animals are so commonly confiscated from illegal trading activities, and need to be housed somewhere before release back into the wild. Of course, some of the animals will never be released to the wild, since their health or behavior may be too impaired from their time in captivity.
The Rescue Center is funded in cooperation with Free The Bears (an European-based non-governmental agency), and there are plans to build an improved facility just south of the Park HQ in the near future. The tours are educational, and you can see the bears visiting their semi-natural enclosures. Currently they spend part of each day in their cage, and part in the enclosure where they have enrichment activities and are encouraged to look for food and interact with the environment. The animal keepers have to maintain a strict schedule for the bears, depending on which individuals get along with each other and which need to be kept alone.
There is a volunteer program for the rescue center. It requires a time commitment of more than a week (and perhaps more than that), but you should contact the Tourism Office if you want more information on how to apply.

This UK-based organization specializes in the rescue, rehabilitation and release of endangered primates naturally found in the surrounding region. Golden-cheeked gibbons, black shanked douc, silvered langur and pygmy loris are all victims of the illegal wildlife trade. A visit is a perfect opportunity to see and learn about these amazing primates. Dao Tien Island is 5 minutes upstream from the boat landing. If you would like to take an educational tour, make arrangements with Park Tourism Office. You will travel to Dao Tien in their boat with your guide. A tour of the center is included in with the Wild Gibbon Trek (previously described), or you can visit the center independly.
                                   

Day Long Trips

Crocodile Lake.  This can be a day trip or an overnighter.  28 km round trip.


Discover a part of Vietnam that few tourists get to see. The Ta Lai Village is 12 km from Park HQ, and is populated by Ma, Tay and S’Tieng people. The Ma people are the original inhabitants of the Park’s Core Zone.  Here you can visit the small museum, have a meal or even stay the night at the community owned bamboo long house, and experience the daily life in this rural community. Allow yourself extra time for exploring the area.

Trekking 7 hours. We recommend staying overnight at the long house because of the distance. Please ask for help with reservations, or contact the friendly Ta Lai Longhouse staff directly via their webpage, http://talai-adventure.vn
Biking. 4 hours.
By Car. 2 hours.

Do you like water? How about birds? Because you can also get to Ta Lai via boat on the Dong Nai River.  Ask at the Tourism Office, and you should probably take a guide with you so you don’t miss the take out.


This long route starts or ends at Crocodile Lake and enters a nice area with small streams and swamps (difficult in the rainy season). First the trail goes through the mixed jungle and ends up in the grasslands near Ta Lai. Please remember food and water and be prepared to cross streams.
Trekking only- 6hours.




Suggested itineraries

Arrive after lunch. Wash, rest, and take a short walk (or bike ride) on the Park Road toward the Ancient Tung Tree, or any of the nearby destinations described under “Half Day Activities.”
Dinner, and then night safari at 7:30 or 8:30. 
Get up EARLY and meet your guide at 5 am for the Wild Gibbon Trek.  (You have to stay at the Park HQ to do the Wild Gibbon Trek, because the ferry across the river does not operate in the dark).  Have breakfast together afterwards and then tour the Dao Tien Primate Center.
Depart after lunch. The Tourism Office can help you with travel arrangements back to the main highway (where you catch the orange bus that runs between Da Lat and Ho Chi Minh City), or with a local, slow bus that goes from the boat landing directly to Ho Chi Minh City.


Option 1.  Same as above but instead of departing after lunch:
Take a car to the Crocodile Lake Trailhead. Trek the 5 km in to the Ranger Station and stay at the guest house overnight.  Wonderful wildlife viewing opportunities (including outstanding birdwatching)
Breakfast with the Rangers. After eating, trek 5 km back to the Park Road.  You can arrange for a car to pick you up and return you to HQ. 
Note: if you need to leave luggage at the Park HQ while you trek to Crocodile Lake, they can keep it safe for you at the Tourism Office.

Option 2. Same as the one day option, but instead of departing after lunch:
            Rent a bike and pedal north along the Park Road 18 km to the farming village of Dac Lua. Stay overnight with silk worm farmers in a community run Home Stay program, which helps local residents get an income from the eco-tourism industry. Your hosts will show you their compact farming operation, and invite you to help make food.  The homestay price depends on how many meals you are planning to eat with your hosts, so make sure you communicate your plans ahead of time.
            Sleep at the homestay.
Breakfast with your hosts. Afterwards, if you have time you can bike into town and visit the silk factory (which is really interesting!)  If you are short on time, pedal back to Park HQ, but keep an eye out for birds and wildlife along the way.

Option 3. Same as the one day option, but instead of departing after lunch:
            Rent a bike and ride south along the Park Rd to Ta Lai Village.  Check in at the Ta Lai Longhouse, and from there you walk around the village, rent a kayak and tool around on the small lake, or just enjoy the scenery with a cool drink.
            Sleep at the Long House, and after breakfast you can ride back to Park HQ. 
            It’s also possible to get to the main highway from Ta Lai (without going back to Park HQ).  However to make this work, you need to be traveling really light and have all your stuff with you, and you will need a way to get the bike back to Park HQ.  If you ask for help, there is probably a way to resolve this issue, since vehicles do travel between HQ and Ta Lai pretty frequently.
            It is also possible that instead of biking to Ta Lai, you could get there in a Park vehicle or have Ta Lai send a car for you. These are details to work out with the Tourism Office at Cat Tien, or the friendly staff at Ta Lai.

Option 4.  Same as the “One Night” option, but instead of leaving after lunch on the second day:
            Have an afternoon rest in your bungalow at Park HQ, where you’ll stay for a second night.  After your siesta, take a tour of the Wild Bear Rescue Center (located at HQ), which takes less than an hour.  Then get back on a bike and head north or south on the Park Rd (whichever direction you haven’t gone yet). Pack a snack, take your binoculars and putter around while looking for animals and flowers. It’s a lovely way to spend the afternoon.  There is always a chance that you will see a gaur or a wild gibbon, even if you stay just within a few kilometers of Park HQ.
            Dinner at one of the Park restaurants.  If you spot groups of people singing festively, try to invite yourself to the party. Group singing is an important and fun Vietnamese custom, and it happens in private homes, public restaurants, and along hiking trails. Enjoy it when it happens. Sing a song if you are brave.
            Depart in the morning after breakfast.




Day 1. Arrive, check in at Park HQ.  Depending on time, pick an activity (previously described) near Park HQ.  Dinner, and then night safari.

Day 2.  Gibbon Trek 5am. Breakfast. Visit Dao Tien, or depart directly for Dac Lua.
Rent a bike and ride to Dac Lua. (Lunch on the trail; pack something portable; you might have to plan ahead and bring something with you on this day- something that you bought before coming to the Park, or you can attempt to order something “take away” from the Yellow Bamboo Restaurant. However that isn’t really common right now.  This whole thing will be much easier if you hire a guide to go with you, since the guide will understand the overall plan and help a lot with meal planning and translation.  AND that is a bonus to their outstanding ability to spot animals along the ride. Short story: hire a guide, you’ll be glad).
Take your time along the Road and stop for side trails like the One Hundred Trunk Ficus, etc.  There’s no rush and it isn’t that far (2-3 hours, depending on your pace).
When you get to Dac Lua, check in to your homestay and meet your hosts.  Take a nap, or if you prefer and time allows, bike into town and visit the silk factory.  Your hosts are silk worm farmers, so remember you can see that operation (depending on the season). The family grows mulberry plants and feeds the leaves to the silk worms, which live in a very simple stacked-basket situation in the living room. It is very interesting.  Even if there isn’t a current silk worm crop (herd? Cohort?) growing in the house, it is interesting to see the mulberry fields and the baskets that they raise the worms in.  There are about 100 families in Dac Lua that raise silk worms, and according to the foreman at the silk factory, they could use more. It is lucrative.

At this point it is has been a very long day, with the 5am Gibbon Trek.  If for some reason you did NOT go on the Gibbon Trek, and the day is still young, you could push on and the visit the extremely interesting Archeological Site on the far side of Dac Lua.  This site is referred to as “The Holy Land” because there was a very high density of temples here during the time of 700-1000 A.D.  And surprisingly (to me) these were mostly Hindu temples (not Buddhist, which are the more common temples in Vietnam). The professional guides will tell you all about it.  Our small group included Vietnamese and non-Vietnamese, but we had an interpreter (our guide Mr Trong) so I’m not sure if the tours are available in English or not. If you have heeded my advice in the previous paragraph about hiring a guide, this is not an issue anyway.
 The most famous artifact at this site is an enormous Yoni-Linga pair, in fact the largest such pair in south east Asia.  They have found many pairs here, as well as hundreds of other religious artifacts, some of which traveled here from India.  Most of the artifacts have been deposited at the provincial museum in Da Lat, but there are photographs, excavations, and lots of things to see.

Bike back and have dinner with your homestay hosts. Go to bed early since it’s been a long day.

Day 3. Bike back into the Park, and stash your bikes at the beginning of the trail to Crocodile Lake.  Hike the 5 km to the Ranger Station and enjoy. Rest, wash some clothes, drink tea on the patio with the rangers, whatever.  Dinner with the rangers and night time animal spotting (from the deck or on a short walk with a guide or ranger. It is dangerous to wander near the water after dark because of crocodiles. Please take this seriously)

Day 4. After Breakfast, hike back out to the Park Rd. Bike back to HQ. Depart after lunch.



Alternate 3 night option

Day 1. Arrive at Park HQ, check in. Night Safari
Day 2. Early rise, Gibbon Trek. Visit Dao Tien.  After lunch, visit Bear Rescue Center. Late afternoon bike ride or walk along the Park Road (take a guide).
Day 3. Trek to Crocodile Lake and spend the night.
Day 4. Morning birdwatching and free time. After lunch return to Park HQ.




Day 1, Arrive at Park HQ and check in. Night safari.
Day 2. Early rise, Gibbon Trek.  Bike to Dac Lua Visit Silk Factory. Stay at homestay.
Day 3. Bike back into the Park. Trek to Crocodile Lake. Stay  at Ranger Station.
Day 4. Trek to Ta Lai. Sleep at Ta Lai.
Day 5. Depart.


As you can probably tell, there’s a lot to do and see here. You could take any of the activities above and extend the duration just by staying 2 nights in each place.
           

Contact the Park Eco Tourism Office via email at cattienvietnam@gmail.com


Tuesday, April 5, 2016

Reconnecting

Embarrassed to notice that I haven't used this blog in over a year.

I was fortunate to be able to travel back to Cat Tien National Park in January 2106, thanks to the Mansfield Center at the University of Montana, and to staff at Cat Tien National Park (here I am with Dr. Khanh Pham, looking for elephants, with Mr Dat, Mr Quang and another Forest Ranger in the back row.


My colleague and friend Carla Abrams (also from Missoula) was living at the Dong Nai Culture and Nature Reserve at the time. We connected and put together some trial itineraries in DNCNR and CTNP, working together with the staff from each agency.

The result was really good. DNCNR currently serves thousands of domestic tourists each year, who primarily visit to see the War Relics, learn about the military history of the area, and pay respects.  Not many foreign tourists looking for nature experiences find their way to DNCNR.  There is so much NATURE to see, and it is so close to Ho Chi Minh City, and it seems natural to have some nature tours available. Carla worked in advance with Mr Ha, Ms Huong and others in the very capable tourism department, and put together an outstanding educational itinerary. More on that later.

Then we went "next door" to Cat Tien National Park. Remember that the Dong Nai Culture and Nature Reserve shares a border with Cat Tien, and both areas are part of the Dong Nai Biosphere Reserve.  However they are quite different.  DNCNR has people living inside of it, but the Park doesn't. They are managed by separate agencies. Cat Tien sees a lot of foreign visitors and offers several well known nature tours.

What I've noticed during my previous visits to CTNP is that it is a little hard to plan a multi-day trip. Well, it hasn't been hard for me because my colleagues at the Park are incredibly gracious hosts and have shown me every inch of the place (and it is wonderful. I miss them).  But talking with many foreign visitors, I can tell that tourists struggle to find the best way to see the park once, once you go on the Gibbon Trek and the Night Safari, but don't want to head back to highway yet.

So I've written a brief Activity Guide for Cat Tien, and I am going to post it here. Let me know if it is helpful for you.

Sunday, March 15, 2015

Dac Lua Homestay


 Cat Tien National Park has partnered with the adjacent farming village of Dac Lua to provide two homestay options for tourists. Both offer simple and clean lodging in traditional style homes, and the chance to have meals with your hosts AND see some interesting agriculture projects.

We visited both projects yesterday and I was sorry to hear that they have not been getting any visitors. This is probably because booking information is not available on line;I will work with the CTNP staff this week to fix this (or at least make it easy to find on line). It is currently possible to call the homestay hosts on the phone, but unless you are already in Vietnam and speak Vietnamese, this is not accessible to most people. I think this activity would be most interesting to foreigners over 30 who are interested in food and conservation and generally meeting new people to learn about their lives.


Each homestay can host up to 5-6 people, depending on sleeping arrangements, for around $10 per person per night (200,000 VND); meals are a little extra ($1.5-$4). The guest beds are together in one room (it is currently unlikely that you'd be asked to share with people outside your group since tourists are extremely rare); the bathrooms are modern with flush toilets and hot water showers.


The first farm relies primary on raising silk worms; visitors can help collect the special leaves that the silk worms eat and learn about the whole silk process. There is a silk spinning facility in the village but I did not get a good look at it.  The house also keeps chickens and has cashew trees; it’s surrounded by rice fields (and other crops) and has pretty views of the forested hills on the edge of the Park.


The second homestay is situated in a gorgeous flower garden, and the hosts grow porcupines, pigeons and chickens, all for food (some for family consumption and some for sale to restaurants).  


With both homestays you have plenty of time for walking or biking the area and checking things out. People don’t really speak much English here so be prepared to smile a lot and rely on body language.

My suggestion for doing either homestay is to contact the Cat Tien National Park EcoTourism Center via email (cattien_nationalpark@yahoo.com) with the dates of your proposed visit, number of people in your group, etc, and ask them to make your reservations.  From the Park Headquarters, I would rent a bike for 3 days and bike the 17 km along the park road to Dac Lua Village. Make sure you get a map or something so you know where to go in Dac Lua. The road is paved for only about the first 5 km. Take your time on the bike and look out for monkeys, birds and lizards. A French woman told me she saw 2 gaur on this road! 

I would spend to nights at the same homestay and then bike back to the park, taking lots of time for photos, looking around at the various interesting ag projects, and of course having a traditional Vietnamese afternoon nap every day. This would be a good “add on” to more popular/well known Cat Tien activities like hiking to Crocodile Lake and the early morning Wild Gibbon Tour . There is a lot to do here!

If you don't want to bike, of course you could walk each direction, or hire one of the park vehicles to drive you to and from Dac Lua.


In case you are wondering why Cat Tien National Park is partnering on this project, it is because poverty, subsistence agriculture, and illegal use of the protected forest are all serious threats to conservation inside the park.  The more economic options available for the local people, the less they will be pressured to squeeze the protected forest and wild animals.  

Your $10 per night will be well spent in the village, and you’ll definitely have an experience that is missed by most tourists. I wish the Dac Lua Homestay project all the luck in the world- thank you for opening your homes and farms to me, David, and our short course participants!

Evaluation forms: Take 1

Dr. Khanh and I made some English language questionnaires (which Mr Tan translated to Vietnamese), and then the class participants distributed them. During one day at Crocodile Lake, we got 13 responses. The responses were helpful- they were asked to rank everything from the park website to the food to how much fun/education was had on their various tours. 

We quickly learned that the form needs to be simplified. We discussed the responses as a group and the visitors had identified some issues that we had already discussed as a group- limitations of the website, issues with trying book rooms or tours, for example. Everyone seemed really happy to help.

I’ll write a  new form and David and I (and maybe some staff) can distribute these in the park in the upcoming week.

Giving a fun and informative tour: interpretive skills


When a person hires a guide in a national park or other place, or joins a free interpretative walk or something, they have certain expectations whether they know it or not. Here are some pointers for doing a good tour or walk.



1.        When it’s time to meet your group at the appropriate location, take a few minute to connect with people. Ask where they are from, smile or make eye contact, and generally give the impression that you are happy to spend time with them.
2.       At the beginning, give an overview. Not a lecture. Just explain: what is the purpose of your tour? What will we see? How long will we be gone? Will there be free time for taking photos or journaling? Are we going to go to one place and then wait for something to happen? Etc.
3.       Make sure people are prepared (shoes, water, rain gear, etc).
4.       Stop occasionally and show something interesting. You can have a set number of planned stops on your tour, but also take advantage of opportunities, like a bird flying overhead or a wildlife sighting or an interesting plant that you come across.  Remember that even if it is something that is normal to you and you see it every day, it is probably new and exciting for park visitors.
5.       Conclusion. At the end of the tour, re state the overview but even more succinctly. Thank everyone and say goodbye.

This checklist helps the people in your group relax a little bit and feel ready to learn. If they don’t understand the schedule or the overall concept of the activity, they won’t have as positive an experience.

We did a field exercise with me as the tour guide and the class as the tourists.  Our first issue was to identify who was coming the tour and what the message would we. We decided that the message was about the conservation value of Crocodile Lake, and our tourists were Vietnamese city dwellers, parents and children, who had never visited the park before.

At the beginning, I asked everyone who they were and to tell about themselves. The class instantly transformed from resource professionals to married couples from Hanoi, families from Ho Chi Minh City, and single parents with teenagers.  I gave an over view of the subject and how far we would walk (important information for people with kids!) and we set out.  I made 3 or 4 impromptu stops to look at plants and give some factual information, and then we sat under some shade trees.  We had to warn some of the families in the group to not wander into the forest because of wild gaur and the danger of getting lost.
People asked good tourist questions, like “is it safe to go swimming even though there crocodiles here?” “Can we eat this kind of crocodile?” and so on.

On the way back to the ranger station, the class members took turns being the tour guide.  We emphasized that people are usually hoping for a combination of new knowledge and an emotional connection with nature or other people.  I think it was a successful exercise and a few people suggested doing this training with some of the park tour guides.  (The people in my class sometimes work as tour guides as part of their duties, but it isn’t their primary duty. Cat Tien has several staff who are primarily tour guides, but this is the peak tourist season so they couldn’t attend most of the training. I’ll try to schedule with them this upcoming week).

Cultural differences and giving tours
Basic manners are often different between Asian cultures and western cultures. We talked about how in America, people expect you to make eye contact or else they think that you don’t like them. However in Vietnam it itsn’t really polite to make eye contact, especially with people you don’t know.  They would think you are creepy if you make more than minimum eye contact Hugging new people is common in America, but definitely not a good idea in Vietnam!  However in Vietnam it sounds like it is okay to pick up kids or squeeze babies, but I would never touch a stranger’s baby at home. They would think I was trying to steal their kid.

My suggestion was that although they shouldn’t do anything that makes them truly uncomfortable, if they are giving a tour to western visitors, it would be considered polite and friendly to make eye contact and smile. This is not the local custom, but it would make the foreign visitors feel more comfortable, and therefore more ready to learn.

Friday, March 13, 2015

Our class goes to Crocodile Lake

I’m several days behind updating this blog since our whole class went to spend 3 days at Crocodile Lake. There is a ranger station and guest house there, and the scenery and wildlife is really outstanding. 


It felt good to move the conversation from the conference room to the outdoors.


Crocodile Lake is a huge wetland complex (2,500 hectares or 6,177 acres in the rainy season, shrinking to 370 acres in the dry season) here in the park. The wetland is a big reason why the park has such high biodiversity.  Wetlands support different species of plants and animals (especially birds and amphibians) than the upland forests. This area is good habitat for gaur, Sambar deer, primates and more. If the rangers are available, you can ask them to take you out on a boat for a small fee. (It’s worth it).




Because Crocodile Lake is so important for regional biodiversity, it was recognized as a Ramsar Wetland in 2005. The Ramsar Convention is an international treaty to support protection of really important wetlands around the world. There are 2 in Vietnam (although I forget the other one right now).

Crocodile Lake is the site of a very successful wildlife conservation projects: the re-establishment of the Siamese crocodile. This animal was locally extirpated by illegal hunting (possibly completely extinct in the wild) around 1990. Restoration efforts began in 2000 and now there is a healthy population of wild crocodiles at the lake. We saw some big ones and some babies.  We saw swimming around, eating fish, and laying in the mud. They are dangerous. You should not approach them, or even go in the water. In this picture Mr Thanh and I are close enough-  can you see the crocodile?


It’s one of the popular trekking destinations in the park because it’s just 5k each direction with a beautiful destination. You pass by a huge Tung tree on the way which is great for taking pictures. It’s possible to see wild primates and lots of birds on the trail. We were kind of a big group though, and going off trail to map some trees, so we didn’t see too much on the trail (exception: a giant lizard and a really poisonous snake).


At the lake we continued our training after a half day of free time. The students hosted meals for Tan and me and everything was delicious. I've not had a chance to get hungry here.

Our training topics at the lake included tour guide skills & a field practical, discussion of the park’s biodiversity, giving evaluation forms to the many tourists who visit the lake during our 3 day stay and then summarizing their comments. I will try to make each of these a separate post.



If you are a tourist visiting Cat Tien and you want to visit Crocodile Lake, you need to buy a ticket at the Eco-Tourism Center and then take a car or bicycle (the park can arrange these) to the trailhead. That’s about 9k (of course you can walk too, but just make sure you have enough time). Then walk the remaining 5k to the lake. You do not need a guide. It is possible (if you ask in advance) to stay at the guest house at the lake and in that case you would have dinner with the rangers. You should do it. I will work with the park to get this information posted on web site (price, availability, etc). There's also consensus that there should be a sign close to headquarters explaining where to get a ticket and how far away the lake is, because it's fairly common for people to head over there on foot without a ticket and unprepared for the distance.

By the time you see this sign, it may too late for your camping trip. There should be another, similar sign 9k from this sign. At the park headquarters.  We actually ran into a group of 6-8 young people who were planning to walk from the headquarters to the lake, to camp, but with only 2 hours total for the trip. And no ticket. 


Tuesday, March 10, 2015

Tour of Dong Nai Culture and Nature Reserve

Mr. Long, Mr Tan and I had an afternoon to visit Dong Nai Culture and Nature Reserve,  which is a huge protected area contiguous with Cat Tien National Park. This reserve has multiple international recognitions for its important conservation features, including high rates of endemic and endangered species, really high levels of plant and animal diversity, inclusion of several historical sites from the Vietnam-American war, and many ethnic groups that are indigenous to the area, who still live pretty traditional lifestyles.

The Dong Nai Culture and Nature Reserve is a part of the even larger Dong Nai Biosphere Reserve, which is a  UNESCO Biosphere reserves.  There are 8 UNESCO Biosphere Reserves in Vietnam. Dong Nai is one of these 8.

The Dong Nai Biosphere Reserve is 969, 993 hectares or (2.4 million acres) and is divided into 3 zones:

*Core Zone- focused on biodiversity management and cultural preservation; there are more use restrictions 72,000 hectares, includes Cat Tien NP and Dong Nai Culture and Nature Reserve

*Buffer Zone- this area does allow human uses for some agriculture or other methods to support livelihood,but there are restrictions because the Buffer Zone is considered a a corridor for conservation activities, and is expected to help protect the biodiversity in the Core Zone

*Transition Zone- appropriate economic development is encouraged, with coordination among all affected groups and agencies.

On our visit on Saturday, we visited areas that are part of the Dong Nai Culture and Nature Reserve. (DNCNR)   So we were in the Core Zone, but not in Cat Tien National Park (CTNP), but the two are biologically adjacent to one another. In Montana, this would be analagous to a big state managed park being adjacent to a national park, because DNCNR is managed by the provincial government while CTNP is managed by the General Forestry Agency (a federal level agency).


The Dong Nai Culture and Nature Reserve is not far from Vietnam Forestry University, and luckily for us, three Reserve staff (Mr Thanh, Ms Yen and Ms Oanh) who are participation in our workshop at Cat Tien just happened to be available to give us the VIP tour. Thank you Team Dong Nai (plus Mr Long in the red shirt)!

The combination of history, biodiversity and culture was really intriguing to me- I've never visited a protected area that incorporated all three together so strongly.  The headquarters is actually called "The Center for Ecology, History and Culture of War Zone D." I like the combination of subjects- you can tell there is a lot of history and complexity here.

We did a few different things:

Visited one of the important war sites. This site had an interpretative museum about war history and re-creation of the tunnels where Vietnamese people lived and worked and strategized during the war.


It has structures, statues, props, relics, and tunnels you can go into. What was so interesting to me was knowing that this place had been completely bombed and sprayed with Agent Orange and now the jungle is lush and diverse. It made me think a lot about the passage of time and the terrible things that happen in the world and other thoughts that I won't be able to articulate here.

We did some bird watching at the central lake. It's possible to rent a canoe or take a guided boat around the lake for sightseeing, more bird watching or trying your hand at fishing. 


We visited the natural history museum (collections room) at the Ecotourism Center. This was really fun and I could have spent an entire day hanging out there. We all took a ton of photos.



Here is Mr Thanh with a hornbill!

We ended with a festive and generous dinner at the Ecotourism Center Restaurant which had a lot of cool bird identification photos and names posted around the ceiling, with a fresh breeze blowing through.  Here is Mr Tan resting before dinner. He is probably translating something because he is always working!!


We saw the skeletons of this mother and baby elephant that are stored at the Ecotourism Center. This is a locally well known story: these elephants ate or destroyed a bunch of mango trees in a nearby community. For punishment, people put out some poison and these two (maybe more) were killed. Keep in mind that the Asian elephant is extremely rare, predicted to be extinct during my lifetime if I'm not mistaken.  Hopefully, with the strong work of Team Dong Nai and the other professionals  here, we can prevent further conflicts and support conservation together. Of course this means taking care of people too, and not shutting them out of decisions and helping to develop other livelihoods.  Hard work ahead. 


In the meantime, come visit Dong Nai Culture and Nature Reserve! If you email the Ecotourism Center (find it on their website) please them I sent you! And make sure you have some locally made rice wine with your delicious dinner. They make a special one here, labeled by DNCNR, which is made with a local medicinal root, Eurycoma longifolia. It's good for you!



*To get to the Dong Nai Culture and Nature Reserve, you can take a bus from Ho Chi Minh City to the city of Bien Hoa. Then transfer to a different bus to the small town of Vinh An, and then take a motorcycle taxi to the Reserve Headquarters. There's a guest house there! Probably best to email the staff so they can make some arrangements for you. They are in the process of putting some package tour descriptions on the web site so keep an eye out. They can also help you arrange bird watching or wildlife watching... Have fun!*


***This post was updated with very helpful fact checking by Ms Yen Ha!